Most people will have seen footage of the Zambezi and it’s famous huge volume pool drop rapids. Of the many facets that makes the river so special a significant one is its variation in flow. Victoria Falls is Approximately mid way through the 2500km course of the Zambezi and with natural flows rising during the rainy season or ebbing during the dry season. This means that over 12 months the White Water section below the Falls is always either rising or falling with a vertical cycle of over 8 metres in some places in the gorge.
The result is that the world famous run occurs at the low ebb of this cycle but as rains bring it up the upper section (rapids 1-10) become commercially un-runnable. There are two reasons for this. Mainly because the pools disappear and the raging, thunderous volume of water causes huge boils and whirlpools that would swallow rafts and paying clients. Specifically because the level means that the one portage (rapid no 9) can now no longer be portaged. Putting in at rapid 1 commits you to a class 5+(++) rapid.
It can however be run by a kayak. And after finding myself in the Zimbabwe for a shoot it’s too hard to pass up a run on this upper section. Unfortunately I can’t find any one to go with me. Most of the river staff are working in other countries as the commercial rafting is closed due to the level and the locals are perhaps just too wise.
It’s always a dilemma deciding to solo. But sometimes opportunities like being next to the Zambezi are just too good to pass up, curiosity outweighs wisdom and I know this section too. So on the 18th July I put in at rapid one on my own. The Porters who carried my boat in wish me luck and wander off squabbling over the fist full of Kwatcha notes I’ve given them. I know their look, they can’t quite work out if I’m mad but they’ve seen me here before so are expectant that they’ll at least earn some more money carrying my boat out of the gorge at the take out.
These huge flows mean I can’t even see the falls as I push away from the boiling pot as spray 350ft high drifts though from the cascade to the head of rapid one. It’s a quick hop across the cushion wave at rapid one and I’m on my way, buoyed in confidence by the feel of the warm water across my face and the rainbow formed by the mist from the falls. There are major hurdles along this run, rapids 5, 7, the narrows at 7and a half, but at every stage of this run Rapid 9, the commercial portage is at the back of my mind. If getting there is a challenge, then certainly rapid 9 is the gauntlet.
It’s clichéd, but life is nothing without taking risks and finding challenges. And none are more valuable than calculated risks based on years of skill, experience and the odd arse kicking. Today I run Solo but I’m with everything I ever leaned, I’m carrying all the confidence from years of paddling with a huge array of paddlers on diverse runs around the world. Today we’ll find out if that’s worth anything.
To see how it went …watch the footage from my head cam on the short film ‘Solo’ at
